5 hours ago
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Vegetables are in my blood. I grew up surrounded by them; boxes upon boxes scattered around my childhood home, a perk from my father’s job as a wholesale purveyor (of bananas, specifically) at Sydney’s Flemington Markets (now known as Sydney Markets). Our family enjoyed an embarrassment of nature’s riches; an endless supply of succulent Asian greens, rotund cauliflowers, glossy aubergine, perky spring onions, and bulging cabbages that overflowed from crates in and around the kitchen and dining room. We needed to step over trays of stone fruit and cartons of oranges to get to the bathroom.
In the summer, I gorged on apricots and cherries until I was sick (true story) – I had no self-control when it came to the fresh stuff. This overindulgence ended abruptly when my father died when I was 15. The endless parade of fresh vegetables and fruits ceased but my deep connection with vegetables lives on. Today, chopping a head of broccoli, peeling a carrot or charring a wedge of cabbage makes me feel closer to my dad. It is a daily ritual that keeps his memory alive.
The sense of feeling alive is never more present than during the transition from winter. Spring, or chūn as it’s called in Cantonese, is actually the first season of the Chinese Lunar Year and somehow, that feels fitting for how we should approach eating during this time of year. As the brisk air thaws and the skies lift, the feeling of renewal and new beginnings punctuates my approach to cooking and feeding others. Bright acidity, twists on classic dishes, and pantry staples used in unexpected ways. Spring is the time to be bold, take risks in the kitchen and reawaken your tastebuds.
This vegetable-laden menu is perfect for just that, serving up new ways of thinking about familiar dishes. Celery and onions step out as the stars of a pickly, herby and salty salad; asparagus lends some earthy charm to a cheesy bake; and robust mushrooms are perfumed with spring onions and sandwiched between shattery, buttery filo sheets laced with chilli crisp. Dessert is usually a course to be fussed over, but there’s no ado here – the no-cook strawberry matcha-misu is made a day ahead and served straight from the fridge.
In many ways, entertaining with vegetables strikes the perfect balance between unfussy cooking and the perfect hosting. Like I have here in this menu, I gravitate towards vegetable dishes that are prep-ahead friendly, salads that can served at room temperature, and others that can be made ahead of time, to be finished or briefly reheated just before your guests arrive. This way, the cook is liberated from the kitchen and free to be a guest at their own party. Now, that is the radical spirit we should all take into spring.
Cheesy asparagus loaf (pictured top)
Everyone knows that asparagus is spring’s best and fairest, but that doesn’t mean it can’t still surprise. Take this crowd-pleasing savoury loaf. Small chunks of asparagus are folded through the batter, giving it texture while also keeping the bread moist. The golden hue is thanks to ground turmeric, which imparts a hint of warmth, while olive oil makes for a robust crumb that is slightly flaky and crisp around the edges. Taking a bite will reveal the bright jolts of saltiness from the olives and cheese, with the sweet, earthy juiciness of the asparagus. The sharp cheddar could easily be substituted with another hard, salty cheese, such as pecorino and parmesan, or something nuttier such as gruyere.
Prep 15 min
Cook 1 hr 15 min+
Makes 1 loaf
Butter, for greasing
185g plain flour
1 tsp baking powder
½ tsp bicarbonate of soda
½ tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp caster sugar
½ tsp fine sea salt
175g sharp cheddar, grated
30g chives, thinly sliced
100g pitted black or green olives, roughly chopped
100ml extra-virgin olive oil
150g soured cream
1 egg
300g asparagus, woody ends removed and sliced into 1cm pieces
Heat the oven to 180C (160C fan)/350F/gas 4 and grease and line a standard loaf tin (about 20cm x 10cm x 6cm) with baking paper. Put the flour, baking powder, bicarb, turmeric, sugar and sea salt into a large bowl and whisk well to combine. Fold in the cheddar, chives and olives.
In another medium bowl, whisk together the olive oil, sour cream and egg until smooth. Add the asparagus pieces and fold to combine. Fold the dry ingredients into the wet ingredients and mix until just combined. Pour the batter into the prepared tin, then bake for an hour to an hour and 15 minutes, until the top is golden and a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean.
Leave to cool in the tin for 10 minutes, then turn out on to a wire rack to cool completely before slicing. Store any leftovers in an airtight container or wrap tightly in clingfilm and store in the fridge for up to five days. To reheat, slice and warm in the oven or toaster.
Mushroom, spring onion and chilli crisp filo bake
This mushroom-powered tart takes its cues from Turkish borek, but ventures farther east with the unexpected addition of chilli crisp. Chilli crisp is most often used to add spice to finished dishes, but its versatility extends beyond just a table condiment. Made with a mixture of fried aromatics and spices – most often garlic, ginger, spring onions, dried chilli flakes, Sichuan peppercorns, star anise and cinnamon – it brings a powerhouse of umami flavours to everyday cooking. Not all commercial chilli crisps are created equal – some are more mellow and salty, while others are spicier or numbing, so experiment and find one that suits your tastes. Here, it adds savouriness and a gentle heat to the shattery pastry, without competing with the earthiness of the mushrooms. The type of mushroom you choose is flexible, but the combination of chestnut and shiitake delivers depth of flavour and texture. No need to be too precious about brushing each layer of filo with fat – scoring the filo before baking allows the final drizzle of butter and chilli crisp to penetrate each layer of filo, making it easier to cut into portions.
Prep 15 min
Cook 1 hr 15 min, plus cooling
Serves 6-8
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
500g chestnut mushrooms, trimmed and roughly chopped
200g shiitake mushrooms, trimmed and roughly chopped
Fine sea salt and black pepper
2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
1 bunch spring onions (about 8-10 stems), trimmed and thinly sliced
1 tbsp soy sauce
2 tbsp toasted sesame seeds
75g unsalted butter, melted
2 tbsp chilli crisp, plus more to serve
12-14 sheets filo pastry (350g)
White or black sesame seeds, for scattering
Heat the oven to 180C (160C fan)/350F/gas 4. Heat a medium frying pan on a medium-high heat for one to two minutes. Drizzle with olive oil, then add the mushrooms, a teaspoon of salt and a big pinch of black pepper. Cook, stirring constantly, until the mushrooms have softened, released their moisture and are mostly dry – five to seven minutes.
Add the garlic and spring onions, and toss until fragrant – another minute. Turn off the heat and add the soy sauce and the toasted sesame seeds, then transfer to a bowl to cool for 10 minutes. Taste and season with more salt and black pepper, if needed.
In a small bowl, combine the melted butter and chilli crisp, then use this to brush the bottom of a large baking dish (I used a 44cm x 33cm one).
Layer half of the filo sheets into the dish, trimming the pastry to size if it doesn’t fit exactly. Brush the top sheet with the butter and chilli crisp mix, then add all of the mushroom mix, smoothing it into a thin layer. Top with the remaining filo sheets and brush the top with the butter and chilli crisp. Using a sharp knife, cut through the top of the filo, extending into the mushrooms, to make squares or a diamond pattern. (It helps to use your non-dominant hand to hold the pastry down while you cut.)
Pour the remaining butter and chilli crisp mixture evenly over the top, tilting the dish so the butter runs into the cuts. Scatter with sesame seeds then bake until the top is golden and crisp – 45-50 minutes. Leave to sit for five to 10 minutes before cutting. Serve hot, with more chilli crisp, if you like.
Pickled celery, red onion and feta salad
When the palate, or soul, needs a pick-me-up, turn to this bold and enlivening salad. It starts with a simple pickle of celery and onions – the vinegar brine softens the pungency of both ingredients slightly, without completely muting their assertive flavours. The pickle is best rested for at least four hours, but is even better if left overnight, making this a perfect prep ahead dish. For a heartier salad, add a legume such as chickpeas or lentils, or a grain like quinoa or pearl barley.
Prep 10 min
Pickle 4 hr+
Cook 10 min
Serves 4
60ml red-wine vinegar
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tbsp caster sugar
1 tsp fine sea salt, plus more to serve
4 celery stalks (350g), trimmed and cut into 1cm pieces
1 large red onion (200g), peeled, trimmed and thinly sliced
½ tsp crushed red chilli flakes
30g herbs such as coriander, parsley, basil, mint, chives or a combination of all
200g feta, crumbled
Extra-virgin olive oil
Black pepper, to serve
Put the red-wine vinegar, cumin, sugar and salt into a bowl and stir to combine. Add the celery and red onion and toss well. Leave to pickle for at least four hours at room temperature, giving it a toss every 30 minutes, or even better, leave overnight in an airtight container in the fridge.
When ready to serve, drain off the pickling liquid and add the chilli flakes, herbs and feta. Drizzle with olive oil and season with salt and black pepper.
Strawberry matcha pudding
A mashup of tiramisu and strawberry matcha latte, this simple no-cook pudding is the perfect dessert to take you through the warmer months. In place of coffee, matcha steps in as the soaking liquid for the savoiardi biscuits, lending a signature grassy earthiness. Inspired by the popular cafe drink, there are also layers of strawberry syrup, ever so slightly sweetened, which impart a tart and fragrant liveliness, not to mention a flash of vibrant colour. Both frozen or fresh strawberries work here, so there’s no need to wait for berry season to make it; in fact, if you are looking to substitute with another berry, blueberries and raspberries would be excellent choices. Best of all, this pudding needs an overnight rest in the fridge, making it a perfect prep-ahead dessert.
Prep 10 min
Cook 35 min
Chill 4 hr+
Serves 9
450g sour cream, at room temperature
450g mascarpone, at room temperature
80g caster sugar
1 tsp vanilla extract
360g savoiardi biscuits (about 42 in total)
300g frozen or fresh strawberries, thawed (if frozen) and sliced
For the matcha soaking liquid
10g (2 tbsp) matcha powder (preferably culinary grade), plus 1 tsp more for the topping
30g (2 tbsp) caster sugar
375ml just-boiled water
For the strawberry syrup
450g frozen or fresh strawberries, thawed (if frozen) and halved
30g (2 tbsp) caster sugar
Put the sour cream, mascarpone, sugar and vanilla in a large bowl and whisk until combined.
Sift the matcha powder into a wide bowl then add the sugar and water. Whisk until the matcha dissolves and there are no lumps, then leave to cool for five to 10 minutes.
Put the 450g strawberries and sugar in a small blender or food processor and blitz until smooth and thick.
You will need a 20cm x 20cm deep, square baking dish. Working quickly, dip one side of a savoiardi biscuit into the matcha mixture and immediately flip it over so both sides are soaked (dip quickly so that the biscuits don’t get soggy and fall apart) then transfer to the baking dish. Repeat, lining them up neatly, until you have one layer of savoiardi biscuits (the exact number of biscuits used in each layer will depend upon the size and shape of your dish and the length of your biscuits). Spoon a third of the mascarpone mixture over the biscuits and spread it out into an even layer, followed by half of the strawberry syrup, spreading it out so it covers the mascarpone.
Repeat this sequence one more time (dipped biscuit, mascarpone mix, strawberry syrup), then add one more layer of dipped biscuits and the final layer of mascarpone mix. Cover and refrigerate for at least four hours or overnight.
When ready to serve, sift a teaspoon of matcha powder over the top and scatter over the sliced strawberries. Serve cold.
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Linger by Hetty Lui McKinnon (Random House USA, £33). To support the Guardian, order your copy at guardianbookshop.com. Delivery charges may apply.
