6 hours ago
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The sky is the same shade as old Tupperware, our tortoise appears to have gone back into hibernation, the flat upstairs has builders in, but the kitchen smells gorgeous, thanks to this week’s recipe. It is one of the variations suggested by Anna Gosetti Della Salda for her aubergine and egg tortino alla fiorentina in the Tuscany chapter of Le Ricette Regionali Italiane, an indispensable book that I would save from a fire. The addition of potato to the aubergine makes it an even more substantial, velvet-like and better-tasting dish, I think: a layered vegetable bake crossed with a frittata that fancies itself as having a touch of baked eggs (although don’t expect any puffing up).
Instead of the aubergine, you could use artichoke hearts (trimmed and cut into slim wedges), courgettes or cardoon, and, if you fancy, you could also add a crumbled sausage or a handful of diced pancetta. Whatever you use, however, a fundamental stage in terms of both flavour and texture is the initial cooking of the vegetables: frying the potatoes, then covering the pan so they fry-steam into tenderness; the aubergine by simply frying. Important, too, is sprinkling the just-cooked slices with a little salt, so the end dish is seasoned through. (The egg and milk mixture is seasoned with cheese – use whatever you have – but check for salt, too.)
Most suitable for this recipe, and a useful frying pan generally, is the one pictured: a 24cm deep- (and sloping-) sided, nonstick frying pan with a lid that can also go in the oven, which means you need to remember to grab the handle with a thick cloth – better still, a cast-iron pan with similar proportions. Alternatively, use a frying pan for the first stage and a round Pyrex dish or baking tin for the oven. Just remember, to prevent sticking, any tin will need to be lined with greaseproof paper or rubbed heavily with butter and dusted with fine breadcrumbs.
Leave the tortino to rest for about 10 minutes before inverting it on to a plate, or serve it in thick wedges straight from the pan. It will also sit happily for much longer, and is great tepid or at room temperature. If the tortino does go into the fridge, remember to pull it out well before eating, so it has time to lose its cold edge. Serve with salad and a blob of chutney (mango is particularly good), or squashed between two sides of split focaccia or a crusty bun.
Potato, aubergine and herb tortino alla fiorentina
Serves 4
4 potatoes (each the size of a kiwi)
1 medium aubergine, trimmed
Salt and black pepper
Olive oil
6 eggs
4 tbsp whole milk
2 tbsp of grated cheese (whatever you have)
2 heaped tbsp minced parsley
1 tsp dried marjoram or oregano
Peel the potatoes, cut into 5mm-thick slices, then pat the slices dry with kitchen towel. Cut the aubergine into 5mm slices, pat dry and sprinkle with salt.
Put the potato slices in a 24cm deep-sided, nonstick frying pan, and ideally one that can go in the oven (otherwise, have ready a round baking dish), add three tablespoons of olive oil and a good pinch of salt and put the pan on a medium heat. Once the potatoes start to sizzle, toss them gently, then cover the pan and turn down the heat to low for 15 minutes, by which time the slices should be tender and golden in parts. Slide the potatoes on to a plate and keep them warm.
Back in the frying pan, warm a couple of tablespoons of olive oil, then fry the aubergine slices in batches, pressing gently with a fork to eliminate liquid and make contact with the pan, until cooked through and lightly golden. Each batch will absorb the oil, but don’t panic: they will cook just fine. Put all the cooked slices on a second plate.
In a bowl, lightly beat the eggs, milk, cheese and herbs, and season. Back in the pan (or suitable tin), arrange layers of potato and aubergine, then pour the egg mixture all over the top. Bake in the middle of an oven heated to 180C (160C fan)/350F/gas 4 for 15-20 minutes, until cooked through, then, if you want a golden top, finish under the grill for two minutes.
